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96 Miata Engine Temp Sender Back of Head

Username Post: Teflon Tape & Temp Sender? (Topic#208287)
56BUDDY 
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01-26-09 02:50 PM - Post#1616205    

Possibly stupid question, can using teflon tape on temp senders give false readings? I've used it on my temp sender (intake manifold) and I could never get my temp gauge to read correctly.

Mel



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nstlga 
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01-26-09 02:58 PM - Post#1616212    
In response to 56BUDDY

Shouldn't bother it as long as you don't have tape wrapped around the sensing part itself. On the threads only..........

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52HardTop 
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01-26-09 03:31 PM - Post#1616231    
In response to nstlga

I do believe it needs to be grounded well. So, that means the teflon tape has got to go. Just make it up so it doesn't leak. Oh, and there are no stupid questions!
Dom

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leon phelps 
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01-26-09 04:06 PM - Post#1616252    
In response to 52HardTop

Use Black permatex. It will work fine and keep you grounded.


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Rick_L 
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01-26-09 04:28 PM - Post#1616273    
In response to leon phelps

A guy at work has been working at getting the temp gauge in his 62 Corvette calibrated back to factory. He found a thread on corvetteforum.com where some guy very thoroughly went through all aspects of replacement senders, adding fixed resistors etc. One of the things he addressed was teflon tape on the sender threads. It makes absolutely NO difference. The reason for this is that the crests of the threads cut through the tape no matter how much tape you put on them.

I thought I had a printed copy here so that I could link it, but I can't find it now. Maybe a search there would turn it up.

That same thread might be of help to any of you that are trying to calibrate a 56 temp gauge.


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HAL_396 
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01-26-09 04:48 PM - Post#1616291    
In response to Rick_L

Rick_L is right. Don't believe him? Put the sender in and them remove it and you'll see plenty of threads without tape on them that provide a good ground. Only exception is if your manifold has been Anodized. ( That's another story )!

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56BUDDY 
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01-26-09 04:58 PM - Post#1616301    
In response to Rick_L
  • Rick_L Said:

A guy at work has been working at getting the temp gauge in his 62 Corvette calibrated back to factory. He found a thread on corvetteforum.com where some guy very thoroughly went through all aspects of replacement senders, adding fixed resistors etc. One of the things he addressed was teflon tape on the sender threads. It makes absolutely NO difference. The reason for this is that the crests of the threads cut through the tape no matter how much tape you put on them.

That same thread might be of help to any of you that are trying to calibrate a 56 temp gauge.

I figured the same thing, common sense, the threads will cut through the teflon tape and ground. But, a friend mentioned about the telflon tape being there and he said, "that's has to be the problem"! I'll try anything right about now.

So, I just wanted to run it by you guys.

Mel

Mel



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Old_Longboarder 
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01-26-09 05:00 PM - Post#1616304    
In response to 56BUDDY

Brass, into cast iron or aluminum, needs no teflon tape. Just eliminate it.

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acardon 
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01-26-09 05:19 PM - Post#1616318    
In response to 56BUDDY
  • Quote:

I'll try anything right about now.


Have you tried an Airtex sender part # 1T1063 from your local parts store? I have heard some vendor senders don't give the correct reading on a 56 gauge.

Don
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frydfsh 
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01-26-09 05:22 PM - Post#1616322    
In response to 56BUDDY

Just bought a new set of Autometer gauges, they say to use teflon tape right in the instructions. I forgot to use the tape, went to the shop 3 days later to find a puddle under the engine. It was the temp sender I had just installed. Put on the teflon---no leak! I would have thought that the brass would have sealed to the aluminun intake myself, but it didn't. I agree the threads will cut through for a good ground.

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tony1963 
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01-26-09 05:41 PM - Post#1616338    
In response to frydfsh

I would get an ohm reading between the sensor and ground. My bet is that the sending unit is just fine and that the problem is either the wiring, connections or the gauge itself.

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No_Dice 
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01-26-09 06:23 PM - Post#1616401    
In response to tony1963

Mal - How do you know it's off? How many degrees are we talking about?


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MikeB 
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01-26-09 08:39 PM - Post#1616540    
In response to 56BUDDY

I've always used teflon tape and have never had a problem. The tips of the threads always seem to cut through the tape to ground the sensor body.

Another option is high temp thread sealer, like this:


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5Larry7 
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01-27-09 06:16 AM - Post#1616731    
In response to Rick_L

How about blue Loctite? Will that cause grounding problems?

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56BUDDY 
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01-27-09 08:52 AM - Post#1616828    
In response to No_Dice
  • No_Dice Said:

Mal - How do you know it's off? How many degrees are we talking about?

What's up Brendan?

Okay, how do I know my gauge is off?...the electric, Old Tyme White Autometer gauge bottoms out at 250 degrees. I've switched the gauge and the temp sender twice with no change, still runs to 250 degrees. All wires run through American Autowire's cluster. I'll probably run a resistor to get the reading down. I added one of those Mooneye mechanical temp gauges that mounts directly into the intake manifold...right next to the sender so, I know the correct reading.

I've had this issue for awhile but, since I put in that Mooneye gauge...I'm not freaking out on running around at 250 degrees. This year I want to finally get rid of a few more "bugs"! Read reversed vent window seals.

Mel



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Rick_L 
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01-27-09 09:00 AM - Post#1616835    
In response to 5Larry7

Blue Loctite (242) is a threadlocker, not a thread sealant. I wouldn't use it there.


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01-27-09 11:55 AM - Post#1616946    
In response to 56BUDDY

I'm guessing you have an electric sender/gauge. Have you measured the resistance of the sender at "nomal"/hot/and in between to see how the resistance changes? Another way is take the sender/gauge out of the car, supply the voltage, and put sender in a pot of water with a cooking thermometer. Heat and see how the temps correspond on the gauges. Do the same way as the mechanical gauges to test. Then you can start adding resistance, or just use a potentiometer (variable resistor).

Bruce

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52chevybob 
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01-27-09 02:00 PM - Post#1617047    
In response to beejay

First off, I do believe that the hole is a pipe thread. These need no sealant as the metal deforms to seal the sender.
As to the guage, are you useing the Autowire sender? If not then it may not read right just because the sender is wrong.
IN addition, you should measure the voltage between the engine block and the body when the engine is running. It may be that there is no good ground between them. The battery is usually connected to the engine on the negative side so the body, if not well grounded to the engine will have some voltage on it and that will make the gauge read high.


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56BUDDY 
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01-27-09 02:37 PM - Post#1617081    
In response to 52chevybob
  • 52chevybob Said:

First off, I do believe that the hole is a pipe thread. These need no sealant as the metal deforms to seal the sender.
As to the guage, are you useing the Autowire sender? If not then it may not read right just because the sender is wrong.
IN addition, you should measure the voltage between the engine block and the body when the engine is running. It may be that there is no good ground between them. The battery is usually connected to the engine on the negative side so the body, if not well grounded to the engine will have some voltage on it and that will make the gauge read high.

53CB,
Yes, I am running all Autometer stuff from gauges to senders and they're all running through American Autowire's cluster.

Your second item interests me. Inadequate ground to the engine...hmm. How can you check to see if the ground is good or not good enough?

Thanks again.

Mel



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Rick_L 
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01-27-09 04:49 PM - Post#1617206    
In response to 56BUDDY

"How can you check to see if the ground is good or not good enough?"

Use an ohmeter or voltmeter. Ohmeter measures the resistance, voltmeter the voltage.

In voltage mode, put the meter on the lowest DC scale. Put the positive lead on the block, and the negative lead on the negative post of the battery. Do this with the engine running and the suspected units turned on.

Or measure the resistance between the same two points on the lowest ohm scale. No need to run the engine or turn anything on in this mode.


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01-27-09 05:33 PM - Post#1617259    
In response to Rick_L

A poor engine ground would cause you far worse problems than an inaccurate gauge reading. It would keep the starter from cranking.

If you are worried about the sender grounding properly, measure the voltage drop between the block and the sender body.

Ray

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acardon 
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01-27-09 05:57 PM - Post#1617282    
In response to raycow
  • Quote:

IN addition, you should measure the voltage between the engine block and the body when the engine is running.

52chevybob suggested measureing between the engine and body. You can have a good ground to the engine but the gauge is mounted to the body. As Rick said, use the lowest voltage scale.

Don
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01-28-09 06:56 AM - Post#1617584    
In response to 52chevybob
  • 52chevybob Said:

First off, I do believe that the hole is a pipe thread. These need no sealant as the metal deforms to seal the sender.


That may be true in a perfect world, but even plumbers use some kind of sealant on pipe thread joints. IMO, not using sealant (or tape) on engine coolant fittings will get you a leak or two everytime. Not only that, but sealant can serve as a thread lubricant to keep sensor and hose nipple threads from getting fused to an aluminum manifold.


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52HardTop 
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01-28-09 08:33 AM - Post#1617635    
In response to MikeB

I too am running Auto Meter gauges and senders. I have a warmed over six in my car. I did not seal my threads and have had no leaks. If you need to rely on a good grounded connection between sender and threads you should try to do so without any thing between them. Any resistance in that connection has got to affect the readings. If you want to make a quick check just take a large alligator clip to the body of the sender and connect it to your ground or neg. See if that makes a difference.
Dom

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51 1/2 Ton pickup soon to be a little of both..

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52HardTop 
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01-28-09 08:40 AM - Post#1617641    
In response to 52HardTop

Now I have a question Is there water in the intake manifold? Is that where is was said it was installed?
Dom

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51 Convertible a 60s Ride.

51 1/2 Ton pickup soon to be a little of both..

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acardon 
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01-28-09 08:45 AM - Post#1617644    
In response to 52HardTop
  • Quote:

Is there water in the intake manifold?


Yes, on a V-8 the intake circulates water from one head to the other. The sender can be installed in the heads also. Some say it gives a little hotter reading since it's closer to the exhaust ports.

Don
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52HardTop 
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01-28-09 10:14 AM - Post#1617708    
In response to acardon

hey thanks acardon, I've been playing with the six cylinders and I know mine is in the water jacket in the head. I now have a crate 350 sitting in the garage waiting to be dropped into the vert. It's good to learn a little something new every day
Dom

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52 Bel Air a traditional 50s Ride.

51 Convertible a 60s Ride.

51 1/2 Ton pickup soon to be a little of both..

1999 C-5 Corvette Convertible. Mid Life Fun..


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52chevybob 
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01-28-09 03:16 PM - Post#1617900    
In response to 52HardTop

Anybody got their neg. terminal of their battery connected to the frame (excluding the battery in trunk guys(? All of the cars that I've go have the battery attached to the engine with a strap to the body for the lighting and so forth that are grounded to the body/frame.
If there is a voltage difference between the engine and the frame, that voltage will be the equivalant of a reduced resistance of the sender relative to what it actually is. Think about it for a moment.
I also find it very interesting how poeple misread things so often!


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acardon 
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01-28-09 05:33 PM - Post#1618011    
In response to 52chevybob
  • Quote:

If there is a voltage difference between the engine and the frame, that voltage will be the equivalant of a reduced resistance of the sender relative to what it actually is.

A stock tri-5 does not have any ground connection to the frame. The frame is not a good ground and the lights and other devices are grounded to the body or engine. The license light bulb is the only electrical device that is grounded to the frame on a tri-5.

Don
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01-28-09 06:20 PM - Post#1618055    
In response to 52chevybob

FWIW, I have my trunk mounted battery grounded to the frame. I also have grounds from the engine to the frame and body. I have measured the voltage drop and it is negligible. I have had absolutely no problems with this set up for over 5 years now. However, I will concede that running the ground to the engine is the recommended way to do it. I decided to try the way I did it and as I said, havd had no problems.

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96 Miata Engine Temp Sender Back of Head

Source: https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/208287